Automatic Cutter Set-up Guide
Use this set-up guide when you have to make adjustments or need to troubleshoot our automatic cutting machines.
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You can secure the Automatic Cutter II or III to a workbench by inserting 1/4-20 studs in the bottom of the base plate (front-center and back-center). Next, extend the studs below the rubber legs to set them into the matching workbench holes (semi-permanent) or through the holes with nuts and washers below.
Cutting Length Calibration
If you need to use your cutter for different materials, you will need to reset the program length on the cutter. Different materials or sizes may cut longer/shorter than the originally programmed length due to their different compression through the feed and count rollers. There will be some variance. Run a test piece at the desired length to determine the length variance re-run. Lengthen or shorten to compensate for the variance.
Internal Access (after 1-year warranty expires)
Doing Your Own Repairs
For owners who would like to do their own service on units that are out of warranty, call us for standard replacement parts at (417) 533-1019.
- Disconnect from 120V power source
- Remove exit-side – Remove base-screws and pull off.
- Remove back – Remove base-screws and slide down.
- Remove front-top (not required for normal service).
- Remove base-screws and top-screw, then roll to the side.
- To properly replace the covers…
- Replace front-top – Wires must clear motor-fan and solenoid.
- Replace back – Slide up under the front-top lip.
- Replace exit-side – Wires must clear motor-fan and solenoid.
- Disconnect from 120V power source.
- Remove exit-side and back – See Internal Access, above.
- Remove key and pin – Holds cut-blade to solenoid.
- Remove upper shoulder-bolt – Upper end of cut-blade.
- Drip thread-locker into the shoulder-bolt hole threads.
- Replace the cut-blade and upper shoulder-bolt.
- Adjust cut-blade tightness – See Cut-Blade Adjustment, below.
- Replace pin and key holding the cut-blade to the solenoid.
- Replace exit-side and back – See Internal Access, above.
- Disconnect from 120V power source.
- Remove exit-side & front-top. See Internal Access, above. With the knife return spring in place, use a 7/64″ allen-wrench to loosen the set screw on the side of the knife base (the block the knife cuts across). Using a 1/8″ allen-wrench, adjust the tightness of the cut-blade upper shoulder-bolt as tight as possible, so that when the cut-blade is manually drawn over the exit-hole and released, it returns fully and freely to its neutral position. Once adjusted, tighten the set screw which seats into the shoulder of the shoulder screw and holds the adjustment. Attach case sides before reconnecting to the power source.
Always disconnect from power source when troubleshooting!
Material not cutting off cleanly/completely
Dull or damaged cut-blade
Sharpen or replace cut-blade. (See Change Cut-Blade in Setup Guide.)
Loose shoulder-bolt holding top of cut- blade
Adjust shoulder-bolt. (See Cut-Blade Adjustment in Setup Guide.)
Foreign material in solenoid-arm is shortening blade travel
Remove exit-side cover (See Internal Access in Setup Guide). Clear material from solenoid-arm.
Material not feeding properly
Flattened width of material greater than feed system or incoming material obstructed
Remove covers (See Internal Access in Setup Guide). If possible, remove the obstruction.
Drive-roller knurling filled with foreign material
Clean knurls with steel brush, through inlet hole.
Cut-blade not returning to neutral position
Adjust cut-blade. (See Cut-Blade Adjustment in Setup Guide.)
Motor not turning
Remove covers (See Internal Access in Setup Guide.) and clear fan obstruction.
Tension arm not holding material against drive-roller
Replace/strengthen tension arm spring.
Tension arm roller not turning freely.
Requires factory adjustment/replacement
End-of-spool material left between drive-roller & exit
Remove material through Exit side, with needle-nose pliers.
Inlet feed-guide not in place with small material
Adjust feed-guide as necessary.